From VoidWarranties - Hackerspace Antwerp, Belgium
Revision as of 23:42, 3 March 2015 by Yashiko
Who is "Vettige Swa"
Building the printer
How does this thing work
Turning it on
- Turn the printer on
- Turn on the computer
- Open the map 'Replicatorg' on the desktop > replicatorg > Run in Terminal (shortcut will be coming up soon)
- The program normally connects automatically with the 3D-printer. If it doesn't: Machine > Connection (Serial Port) > /dev/ttyACM1
- Now we're ready to do the calibration of the 3D-printer.
This must be done every time you turn on the printer
- Machine > Control Panel (Ctrl +J)
- You can play with the axis to put the printer nozzle in the middle of the heated bed. Place it about 1 cm above the heated bed, but in the middle of the x- and y-axis.
- Click the 'Disable' button to turn of the steppermotors so you can turn the z-axis manually until the extruder head gently touches the heated bed. Be careful not to move the x- and y-axis.
- Now make the current position zero
- Close control panel
- File > Scripts > Calibration > Thing-O-Matic calibration.gcode
- Gcode > Build (Ctrl+B)
- Option halt: Continue build? > yes
- Unconditional halt: build ended > ok
Printing a testmodel
- File > Examples > 20 mm calibrationbox stl
- You will see a 3D representation of the model
- GCode > Generate > /usr/bin/python2 > Ok
- The settings: do not touch until we figured the optimal settings
- Plastic: 1,82mm
- Extruder 0,4mm
- Extruder temperature: 220C (It appears that the temperature safety switch for the extruderhead gets tripped sometimes on higher temperatures, the extruder stops extruding and starts to cool down)
- GCode > Build (Ctrl+B)
- The machine will first heat up and then start building automatically
Mon 3th June 2013
- Gcode> gcode generator> skeinforge (47) works much better then skeinforge (50). Printing results are much smoother and nicer (3/6/2013)
- Regulary clean the extruder head with a fine sandpaper to remove the build up and burned abs.
Tue 4th June 2013
As we came out of hyperspace with spaceship Thing-O-Matic we immediately began with the upgrade of the Arduino Mega 2560 inside.
- Updated the firmware of the Thing-O-Matic from Marlin 3.1 to Sailfish 4.4(support for accelerated en 5D printing. After this, I updated ReplicatorG to 0040. We now use code generator skeinforge (50), it works good with Sailfish 4.4. We can also print much faster now(using accelerated printing).
- Played a little bit with the settings, the printer head kept touching the printed piece while printing. This was because of the small dent in the middle of the board. Calibrating the Z axis a bit out of the middle of the board, gave very nice and smooth print results. Please don't change and save the settings, the "default Thing-O-Matic" slice settings in ReplicatorG should work. If you do want to test with changing settings, duplicate the profile and rename it to "Test" or "yournamehere".
- Started to print a upgrade for the Thing-O-Matic: a snap-on table, adjustable in height with screws. The board is snap-on, snap-off with magnets for easy maintenance(no magnets acquired yet though).
- 220C on the extruder head seems to do the trick to keep the safety switch from tripping.
- When we started printing the large workpieces, we noticed warping(the workpiece bending and coming off of the table). There are a few things you can do to prevent this(in order of importance):
- Slow down your printing feed rate to 30-40mm/min, it will take much longer to print, but your print will less likely be ruined.
- Clean the table with a kitchen paper and acetone.
- Increase raft size, in width, in thickness and/or full fill. This is an advanced option, please use another profile(testing or your name) to adjust these settings. Oddly can assist you with this.
- Increase table temperature to 115-120C, maximum 130C.
- Replace the Kapton tape, it could be worn out