| The place we meet and work in will potentially have it's heating shut down during summertime. We need to come up with a solution of condense forming against the cellar walls and equipment. That happens because relatively warmer outside air circulates through the space and leaves it's moist at all the colder surfaces the cellar is made of.
We need to have an installation that attracts the moist to it and make it favorable for all those water molecules instead of the cellar walls.
First thing to do is to measure the effective amount of humidity in the space. Ordering a hygrometer of some kind an monitoring the output is a nice sub-project to kick this of.
Proposed solutions for evaluation
In order to dehumidify our basement several things can be done:
- provide more ventilation to prevent moist air staying in isolated rooms. Still air will cause a muggy, heavy feeling and a musty smell.
- paint walls with waterproof coating to prevent water entering our basement (ideally the outside of the walls have to be treated too, but I guess this will be very expensive)
- blow dry and warmer air in the rooms. This air will pick up moist very quickly resulting in a lower relative humidity. Also the room will be heated, so there will be less difference in temperatures, resulting in less condensation.
- put an electric dehumidifier in the rooms. This approach will drain lots of current.
Solar Hot Air Collector
This pages contains some information about SOLAR HOT AIR COLLECTORS (so a solution to nr 3 above)
Every time the sun shines your cellar will be actively supplied with warmed, dry, fresh air; eradicating the moisture and making your cellar amazingly fresher and cleaner.
diy example + theory
improved beer can collector:
Dimensions (in mm):
Glass sheet (1x): 1511 x 978 x 8
Isolation panels (3x): 1250 x 600 x 50
BRAIN FARTS HERE:
- we should be able to open the box afterwards to change interiour design
- glass sheet should be covered with some kind of mesh to protect it against footballs and chiro violence
- it can become hot inside the box, all used material should be heat resistant and should NOT release any hazardous vapours
- use black BBQ grid paint (heat resistant)
- two temperature sensors + control print to turn on/off the fans when needed
- only fan needed in the upper hole (because thermal flow from bottom to roof)
Some kilos of of silica gel
- Leave it to dry on warm days in the open
- No electricity needed
Calcium chloride is a better dehumidifyer and also fairly easy to boil down to crystals again.
Placing a pump in a deep pit somewhere under or next to the space could make a heat exchange that could be used. Drilling a pit on the Josto domain is probably not easy to arrange, nevertheless, we could think this solution through to see how this would scale. Opening up the old water-pit under our space could be an option.
Peltier element solution
- DC voeding van 15V 6.5 A (heb ik nog wel liggen Jobj
- Peltier element (warmte wisselaar) op Conrad NL vond ik dit
- PC FAN's
Except for the power supply I have everything for this build (in moving boxes, so it will take time to find) but don't think that this will suck much moisture out of the air and efficiency is 60% lower then a cooling cycle dehumidifyer.Here is a 'speedhack' of a recycled peltier element from a powered coolerbox.
Perhaps this system can be repurposed as an automatic soldering cushion moisturiser :-)
Recycled Dehumidifier equipment
- A partly working dehumidifier was brought in the space in December 2010.
- The functioning main part is the fan with condensor and heatrelease attached. The fan has been used in Ventilation speed hack (some pictures)
What is malfunctioning in this device? If the cooling cycle works, these machines are generally easy to repair.
For all the above it is interesting to evaluate how much electricity is needed and how much budget we can spend on the continuous operation of the solution.
- Insulating the cold cellar walls with a thin layer of non moisture absorbing foam.
Armaflex is a brand of very good products to insulate cold, condensing and even freezing surfaces but can be quite expensive. Cheaper alternatives may be out there. The required thickness of insulation can be determined by measuring or calculating the dewpoint and making sure the surface temperature of the insulation is higher. The result will be:
- No more condensation on all insulated surfaces.
- No problems with relative humidity becoming too low. (eye and mucous membrane irritation)
- A lower heating cost in the winter
- Consumes no power.
- An alternative could be a second wall installed in front of the cold, wet walls. There must be a layer of air between the walls, this will improve insulation and the moisture/water from outside won't touch the inner wall.
Following materials can be used:
- a brick wall (normal stones)
- a cellular brick wall (stuff like Ytong etc) => these are big bricks, so you can quickly build a wall (prices ) We can use 7cm thick Ytong blocks for bigger walls, 5cm is generally used for smaller applications..
- a gyproc wall, the metal studs should be attached to floor and ceiling (prices )
- http://www.dpcalc.org/ easy to see the relation between Temperature - Relative Humidity - Dewpoint and what the effects are on humans, machines and mold.